So if you read my post on netting, you have an idea of how much I like finding ancient techniques. This post is about another one best known from Finnish work.
A pair of socks from Egypt worked in the Coptic culture of the 200s-500s CE uses a technique now called nålbinding which is related to both knitting and crochet. Because people used it that long ago, and because it is found all over northern Europe, you can suspect that it has a much longer history, possibly back as far as the breeding of wool sheep out of the original mouton hair sheep. So, by 3000 BCE. Museum pieces of nålbinding in Scandinavia date to the same time as development of the Selbu rose motif but obviously reflect a long history.
You use one needle with an eye, so if you have yarn or tapestry needles, those would work.
You use long pieces of yarn, you don't work directly from the skein.
You form a chain of loops by working the yarn into old loops and then into a loop around your thumb, which you push off your thumb while forming a new thumb loop.
This technique works best with wool yarn, unless you have a fairly sturdy yarn that will survive working with very long pieces to avoid having to add yarn. You have to add in new pieces of yarn when you get to the end of one. Adding yarn involves slight felting, which requires hackling. Only wool yarn hackles.
Hackled yarn isn't strong enough for a loom. You want to take your spun yarn, wind it into your loom and cut off the extra. You don't waste those pieces, you work them up into small items with nalbinding. They couldn't afford to waste anything in those days.
This site gives the most detail, including videos for several families of stitches: Finnish; Oslo; York. York was captured by the Vikings and became the capital of the Danelaw so it makes sense that the Vikings imported their crafts. This site includes instructions on classic ways of doing multi-color work and the patterns used by people the writer interviewed.
https://www.en.neulakintaat.fi/
You can get special needles at a number of sites like Mielke Fiber Arts and Lacis. Do NOT buy Woolery's curved needles. I worked with them for a week and could not turn out a nice braid. The swelling around the eye is too large. They're nice to look at but it's like the "darning needles" that Woolly Thistle sells: that flange at the eye makes it impossible to use them for darning, duplicate stitch, tucking in loose thread or sewing seams. None of the nalbinding videos use needles this fat and most of them are straight; the curved ones do not have such an extreme curve.
Mielke's has three types of needles. The wooden ones should work well with heavy worsted and bulky yarns. The bone one works with worsted and should work with sport weight. The metal ones would be good for DK and fingering.
Most people make socks and mittens in nalbinding. If you use a three or four yard piece of cotton yarn, you can make a nice lanyard. There’s also a pattern for a shawl in two parts at this site.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVUEFGYEjTc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cAoTjPjGruE
You can learn to carve your own needles.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0wQcdqiLjnU
When you are learning to work on the flat, use this video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iaKlTSKqcvk
When you work your first sample, I highly recommend that you use a different color of yarn for the second row so that you can see which loop you picked up to make your last stitch, and then you can be sure which loop to pick up for your next stitch. Also notice that when you are about to start a new row, you pick up two loops before taking your stitch, but as you work down the piece you only pick up one loop.
Hints.
To splice in new yarn, unravel the plies of your yarn for a couple of inches. Lay them together, get them wet and lay them across one palm. Then use the other palm to roll them together and get them to hackle. Work slowly for a while so you catch it if they try to unhackle, and dampen and roll again.
If your yarn refuses to hackle, go ahead and use a square knot. Wait until your working yarn is less than a foot long and then you will get past the knot pretty quickly and go back to using plain yarn. Use your needle and fingernails to loosen old stitches and get them over the knot. But first make sure your grandma from the Old Country isn't watching cause she will throw a hissy.
I tend to use my lowest three fingers to stabilize the working yarn.
The biggest problem is knowing which loop behind your thumb is the previous thumb loop. Pull gently on the top of the current thumb loop; the one behind your thumb that moves is the previous one and that's the one you want to pick up going front to back, then turning and working into the current thumb loop and under the working yarn.
Before making a new stitch, gently tighten the previous thumb loop to lie against the braid. This will make a neater result. Then tighten the current thumb loop slightly by pulling on the working yarn that goes to the needle, and then take your stitch.
When I stop working, I put my needle through the previous thumb loop in the direction it should go when I make my next stitch.
Work slowly and carefully until you get the hang of it. By the time I finished my first row for my learning project, I had considerably picked up speed and the second row went even faster despite having to double check and make sure I was consistent about which loop on the first row I picked up before taking the stitch.If things go wrong, just work backwards to the last place that looks right and start from there. I had to do that twice yesterday.
If you've done nalbinding and this looks wrong, let me know what you think I messed up on.
I'm just getting started with nålbinding and I think I will try to work some things in bulky yarn once I clear out old projects that I never got around to.

