Sunday, April 23, 2023

Knitting -- rolled cuff on bottom up sleeve

Most of us do ribbing in sleeve cuffs. One big reason is it keeps the sleeve from curling up. You can get the same thing with seed stitch on a fine yarn like linen. 

When I was looking for info on Lopapeysa I ran into this video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ss8VxLNqlY

Here's what she does.

Use the long-tail cast-on for half the stitches you want at the bottom of your sleeve, plus one. Use a contrasting color to what the bottom of the sleeve will be. When you untwist the stitches and are ready to join, slip a stitch over.

Now purl 3 rows with your normal color.

Now purl the first stitch. Then watch at 10:09 where she goes down to the first row of the normal color and picks up the loop that is between the two hyphens of the contrasting color. She puts that loop on her needle and KNITS it. She purls the next stitch that is already on her DPs, picks up the next stitch from the bottom, and KNITs it. When she finishes with this round, she will have double the stitch count that she cast on. 

There's a trick to this. You have to be careful and pick up a stitch that is between that stitch you just purled and the next one. Otherwise the bottom of the cuff will be offset a little. It's not easy but once you get the first pickup right, the rest will go fine.

So if you are working with fingering weight and the total count you want is 76, you cast on 39, split onto 4 DPs, move the first stitch to your last needle, slip the last stitch over, purl your first 3 rounds, and then start picking up that first row which is marked with your contrasting color.

When you finish your ribbing, cut out the contrasting yarn.

So here are three cuffs. The sand colored one is my normal cuff. You can see the line where I used the long-tail cast-on and then started doing the rib.




The orange one is the first rolled cuff I did, and I think you can see the slight twist at the very bottom. That shows that I picked up the wrong stitch to knit. 




The brown one is from a sweater where I was careful to pick up the correct stitch. It's a dark color but you might be able to see that it's not offset.




The rolled-hem is fiddly, as the British say; it takes a while to get that pickup round done. It's a little hard on the fingers. You have to do the sleeve from the bottom up, and then you choose between knitting it onto the armhole, doing a normal raglan sleeve, knitting it up with a yoke, or doing faux set-in sleeves. I think it looks a lot like the cuffs of my long-sleeve sleep tees, that is, it looks commercial more than hand-made. It's up to you what look you prefer.

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