Knitting -- tunic with gored skirt and bottom up gored skirt

I worked a raglan top to use up some black yarn, and I put a Fana star at the yoke, then made short sleeves. When I got to the hem, I still had several skeins of yarn so I tried out a stitch count for a gored skirt that I found online. I can't find the pattern now but I transcribed the method into a file I have, so here goes. 

On the next round, P1 just after the marker on what will be the right side when you wear the piece, work to the front marker, P1 on each side of it, P2 at the left side marker, P2 at the back marker, and P1 in the stitch before the right side marker.

P1, K1 but don’t take it off the needle; now purl through the back loop by inserting the needle left to right and looping your yarn around the point, then push the point of the needle to the back to make the stitch (PTBL). Pull both this and the knit stitch off the needle. Knit to the center front and BEFORE the P1, K1/PTBL. Then P2, K1/PTBL. Repeat at the left side and back markers, and then K1/PTBL/P1 to finish that round.

Work 3 knit rounds, doing the P1 at every marker but NOT the PTBL.

Do an increase on the next round: P1 at the right side marker, KF/B after it, knit to the next marker and KF/B before it, P1, and repeat.

Repeat this increase every FOURTH round unless you want narrower gores, then every 10^th round.

For a tunic with a 7 inch skirt, at round 216 do your last increase, then work 1 round seed stitch PSSO to bind off the skirt. 

Notice that the P2s are in the center front in the photo; the ones on the sides and in back you can't see from this. You can make a solid gore at the front and back by putting the first P2 36 stitches AFTER the right side marker. Then K73, P2, K73, P2, K73, P2, K37.

Here is a list showing round number (skirt length) and stitch count at the bottom of the skirt:

224 (8 inch skirt): 432

232 (9 inch skirt) : 440

240 (10 inch skirt): 448

248 (11 inch skirt): 456

256 (12 inch skirt): 464

264 (13 inch skirt): 472

272 (14 inch skirt): 480

280 (15 inch skirt): 488

288 (16 inch skirt): 496

296 (17 inch skirt): 504

304 (18 inch skirt): 512

312 (19 inch skirt): 520

320 (20 inch skirt): 528

328 (21 inch skirt): 536

336 (22 inch skirt): 544

344 (23 inch skirt): 552

If you want to start at the bottom and make a 26 inch skirt, you need about 3000 yards of fingering weight yarn. Cable on 576 stitches to a size 3 32 inch circular needle, setting markers at stitches 144, 288, 432, and the end of the round. Knit around, working a P1 on each side of the marker and DECREASING beside the P1s every 4^th round, until you have 300 stitches left. Switch to a size 3 24 inch circular needle if you haven’t already done so. Now work the waistband of the skirt in K1/P1 rib and bind off in rib at the top.

For a 31 inch long skirt, cable on 616 stitches and set your markers at 154, 308, 462, and at the end. 

You can make the bottom-up skirt into a dress with a bodice of any pattern you want by not making a waistband, and continuing to knit from bottom to top in argyle, Fair Isle, Aran, houndstooth, brioche, Breton stripe, or a Norwegian traditional pattern. Depending on the yarn, you can do raglan, steeking, or faux set-in sleeves. The bodice and skirt can be in different solid colors with a tuxedo or cardigan that matches the skirt. 

For a summer dress, use linen or a fingering weight silk blend. You can make it sleeveless with a V neck and selvages on the edges. Then work a matching linen knit jacket with a selvage at the neck instead of a collar. Or top it with a lace shawl.

It's a lot of work. In the summer, you won't want all that yarn in your lap, even if it's linen. Use a chair with at least one arm and lay the finished part over the arm to get it out of your lap. Also it's heavy; your fingers will get a serious workout. And remember, to avoid repetitive motion problems, you can use continental hold or Irish pit hold, which should also speed up the work.