Sunday, October 31, 2021

Knitting -- French/Breton sailor's jersey

They say this classic top would have stayed in the French navy without Coco Chanel to adapt it for her sportswear line. It was the start of the modern pattern. I've added a twist that will let you adapt old patterns calling for set-in sleeves.

Here's a vintage photo of real French sailors wearing their jerseys. You can see that it would be easy to work the sleeves like you do for Fair Isle: attach your yarn to the steeking and work the stripes around the arms without paying attention to the stripes on the body.


What Coco did was this:  

See how the stripes match? You're going to want to knit the sleeves, probably bottom up, making sure that from the armpits up, the stripes are positioned to match the body. Also notice that there's one last white stripe below the neck ribbing.

This may sound like a job for raglan but also notice that these are definitely set-in sleeves. 

What I did was -- wait for it -- raglan. I made faux set-in sleeves and I'll tell you how. You can use this technique on any pattern you have that calls for set-in sleeves, so that when you're done knitting, you're done.

Cable on 240 stitches in DK to a size 5 or 6 needle with a 24 inch tether.

Work 6 rows K1/P1 rib.

Make the stripes 4 rows high. End with a full stripe in either color.

At the underarms, put ten stitches each onto a holder.

Cable on 56 for the sleeve, work the rib, then work the number of rows you need to get to the armpit. End with a full stripe, the same color as on the body.

Start the next stripe in the other color. Add each sleeve to your main needle at the armpit.

Work one full stripe in that color.

At EACH SIDE of the sleeve, Slip 1/K1/ PSSO to work decreases ON EVERY ROUND. This is what makes the faux set-in sleeve work. Do NOT decrease on the body. Do NOT work K2TOG decreases; they don't look nearly as nice.

Work 56 rows above the armpits ending with 2 rows of the hem rib color. You can work a mid-back elevation if you want; I didn't.

Knit together 25 stitches at the shoulders.

Work K1/P1 rib at the neck for 6 rounds.

Close your armpits, tie in the tag ends of the yarn and you're done.

I used Sirdar Snuggly DK in merino, cashmere and silk; the blue is called Prince Charming and is basically a French blue or cadet blue; the white is called Snow Queen. 

The other plus here is that if your yarn isn't wool, you don't want to work steeking because it won't hackle together, but you can still work in the round.

So now go to this site and try out some classic patterns that want set-in sleeves, that you didn't want to try before because you're hooked on knitting in the round.

https://freevintageknitting.com/women.html

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