You will never see this book on my eBay account. It will stay with me until I die and then I will give it to a niece who also likes knitting.
Most of the patterns are the usual suspects, except for a miniskirt and matching jacket in a tweed yarn.
Another exception is a large coat worked in two colors of worsted yarn. The cast-on uses two strands and sets up a 12-stitch checkerboard pattern with solid color and mixed color squares. The coat is kneelength; the sleeves stop a few inches short of the wrists.
The final exception is something I think my Mom made for herself once, in the same pink as the photo, so I made one, only in sport weight in a shade of orange called Mai Tai Heather. It uses a 5-stitch, 4-row motif that fits easily onto your basic pullover:
BE CAREFUL ABOUT THE YOs. It's as disastrous to forget them here as it is when you work lace.
Cast on a number of stitches divisible by 5 and also 4 (such as 220 for sport weight) and work your k2/p2 rib.
Row 1: K1 through back loop, yo, K3tog through back loops, yo, k1
Row 2: slip 1, K3, slip 1
Row 3: Do not work 1st stitch on needle: knit 2nd through back loop, leave on left needle, now knit 1st stitch through front loop and pull both off (twist seen in Aran design); K1; work stitches 4 and 5 the same as 1 and 2.
Row 4: knit
It can be tricky to keep everything lined up. Use the last row-1 when you start a new one, to make sure the bobbles line up in the middle of each horizontal frame.
Work the inches you want under the armholes. A repeat is about 1/2 inch high, so for 13 inches above the ribbing, you want 26 repeats or 104 rounds.
Bind off 5 on each side of the "seams" (you did run a contrasting yarn to mark them didn't you?)
Work steeking at the armholes. The original pattern assumes you're going to work a front and back and sew them together at the sides, so it doesn't tell you how to work the pattern on a purl row.
Work 60 rounds and finish with row 3 of the motif, knit a row, knit off your shoulders and work your neck ribbing.
For the sleeves, you have to work from the cuffs up to get the motif to go in the right direction.
Cable on 60 stitches to size 5 DPs and work your k2/p2 rib.
K1, F/B increase, knit around to next to last stitch, F/B increase, K1.
Work one set of rows and in the knit row, do another increase on each side of the underarm where you are running your marker yarn.
Now increase every 5th row for 10 repeats. Your counting can be tricky since you're not increasing on the same row of the motif every time but if you keep with the row-4 increase, the sleeve will increase too quickly.
At some point, like about the 5th increase, you'll see that you have 7 stitches on each side of the underarm before you start working the motif.
In the photo, the arrow marks the underarm "seam".
The brown line is below the 7 stitches on one side of the "seam".
The next time you get to row 1 of the motif, K2, do row 1, and at the other end, K2.
This maneuver keeps you from having an increasing number of Ks at the start and end of every round.
You can see where I added this motif above the brown line,
When you have done your 10th round-5 increase, you will have done 12 sets of increases.
Now increase every 4th round for 10 rounds, doing that maneuver where you extend the line of the round-1 motif whenever necessary.
When you have increased 20 times, you should have 100 stitches on your DPs, which are getting crowded.
Switch to a size 5 circular needle with a 16 inch tether for the rest of the sleeve.
Do your last two sets of round-4 increases.
You're at row 98.
Now do increases every 3rd round, doing that maneuver when necessary.
Your final stitch count should be 136.
Your final number of rounds should be 159, ending on a knit round.
If you get to 136 stitches before you get to 159 rounds, stop increasing and just finish the sleeve.
Bind off the edge.
Now cut your steeking, turn the body inside out, match the shoulder join to the middle of the sleeve at the top, and match the middles of the underarms.
Sew together, easing the sleeve gently so that there are no folds along this seam.
Do the other sleeve, weave in your yarn ends, and you're done.
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