You've
knitted the bottom of the argyle pullover, wrapped the middle stitch and turned
to purl back. You have one stitch left in the diamond and then you have to lock
the diamond and rib colors to prevent gaps.
Then you are going to unwrap the diamond color. Make sure it layers on top of the rib color instead of between it and the needle or it won't lock.
Then you are going to pull the rib color through.
Purl in rib color to the next diamond.
Now you
need the technique in the next video.
About
minute 2:19 it shows how to work the left hand yarn in without leaving a
gap.
So you
are going to wrap the diamond color clockwise around your right-hand needle.
Then you
are going to wrap the rib color counterclockwise around that same needle
like for a normal purl stitch.Then you are going to unwrap the diamond color. Make sure it layers on top of the rib color instead of between it and the needle or it won't lock.
Then you are going to pull the rib color through.
Purl in rib color to the next diamond.
Now you
are going to pick up the bobbin of diamond color for that diamond.
You're
going to wrap rib clockwise, wrap diamond counterclockwise, unwrap rib, and
purl in diamond color across this diamond.
Then
you're going to do the same thing to lock together the colors, picking up the
rib color from the new bobbin, and so on.
When you
get back to your first diamond, you have a situation. The bobbin with the
diamond color is on the other side of this diamond. If you bring it back
to you, you'll create a floatie, a tail of yarn which is prone to catch on
things and break. What a terrible end to all your hard work!
What you
have to do is add in a second bobbin of diamond color to work this particular
diamond from both sides. Lock it in with your rib color, knit the diamond
stitches to the center. This center stitch is the one you wrapped in the knit
round.
Purl it
with the stitch wrapped around it, wrap the next stitch, and turn to do the
next knit round.
Here's
what it looks like at the middle of the pale diamonds. Sorry for the crumpling,
you'll see it better when I finish.
And
here's what it looks like with ALL the bobbins. Now you can see why you
probably don't want to travel with this.
The yarn
from the bobbins easily gets tangled. Leave only about 4 inches and they'll
have less room to play in. Also as you work the body, it will help keep them
separated.
All
right, now let's test how much you've learned. Do your first 15 rounds and then
stop and check something out.
Look at
the diamond where you are doing your stitch wrapping. Can you smooth it
out or does it pooch up?
If it
pooches up, there are two possible reasons.
One is
you weren't doing the wrap stitches loosely enough. So when you picked up
the wrap stitch while finishing the purl round, you had to pull all the
stitches out of alignment.
The other
is that on your purl rounds, you forgot about picking up the wrap stitch and
purling it together with the stitch it's wrapped around. All you did was wrap
the stitches in a solid vertical line.
Unfortunately
in both cases you have to ask yourself if you want to wear this top out in
public. If so, you have to unwind all 15 rounds, wind the yarn back up on the
bobbins, and start over. To me, sacrificing 15 rounds is a lot better than
making a whole sweater with that poochy diamond.
And now,
the question you have all been asking for 4 posts: HOW MUCH YARN DO I BUY?
When I
make a top, the body usually takes 6 skeins (50 grams a skein) of worsted
weight yarn. It did work out that I needed 3 skeins of each color in this
two-color top. The sleeves will be solid and I usually need 3 skeins each to
make sure they're long enough, although plenty is left over. So calculate your
purchase based on a) your size; b) the weight of yarn you're using and c)
whether you're doing two colors or three.
There are
two more steps, putting on the sleeves and putting on the lines. Next post I'll
show you which one I did first and why.
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Patricia Jo Heil, 2013-2020 All Rights Reserved